Saturday, February 9, 2019

My Thoughts on the Modern Day Michter's in Kentucky.

Well here's a post sure to ruffle feathers, step on fingers, and possibly (Hopefully) inspire some thought on the subject of new versus old. I'll try to keep my thoughts brief and to the point without bringing in much side story or fluff. I'd like to keep this short and readable. I owe my allegiance to no one and no one puts words in my mouth. These are my opinions and do not reflect the opinions of anyone else.

I've been asked a lot recently, with the opening of the Michter's Distillery in the historic Fort Nelson Building in Louisville, about my thoughts on the current owners of the brand. My thoughts have evolved over time- mellowed a bit over time. I never felt the need to address my thoughts on the Kentucky operation since my love and concentration of what I do lies solely with the little distillery outside Schaefferstown, PA. But here we are, and I will lend my thoughts.....


I am going to start out by saying I appreciate what Mr. Magliocco and his company have done with Michter's. The expanding popularity of American whiskey has allowed Michter's to travel further and gain more exposure than the terrible market conditions and small budget Michter's in Pennsylvania had to deal with. The modern product lineup is excellent, and the brown label Sour Mash is a great modern day representation of what once flowed from bottles and decanters made in Pennsylvania (I did a review on it a few years back and can be found on this blog.). I am glad to see the original Michter's pot stills again used to make Michter's whiskey- and on display in what looks to be a beautifully restored building. I plan on making a visit some day. I also encourage others to find Michter's whiskey on the shelf and give it a try. It's worth the price.

Now I'll try and break down a few of my thoughts individually about various aspects of Michter's that have been brought up:

-HISTORY- There are unverified rumors floating around that the folks in Kentucky, at times, have claimed some of their older bottlings are left over whiskey from PA and/or they are the same company and people from PA. I had one person tell me the distillery in Schaefferstown was once referred to as "...our old distillery..". I cannot verify any of this and all Michter's publications and interviews I have seen it is noted that they purchased the name after the PA distillery closed. I can find no verification anywhere of a claim that it was old PA whiskey either. While the wording can be a little tricky, it is clear that Mr. Magliocco and Mr. Newman "resurrected" the old brand and it is not a linear continuation. Reading the "Legacy" portion of the Michter's website, you will see what I mean. Initially, when I heard reports of claiming they are one and the same as the original Michter's, I was quite upset. But upon investigation, it seems most, if not all, reports were false and they never outright claimed to be Michter's from Schaefferstown.

-BOMBERGER'S AND SHENK'S- Here's a fun topic. Mention Bomberger's and immediately everyone brings up the topic of Heritage Spirits Distillery (Now Stoll & Wolfe Distillery) in Lititz, PA. I will preface the following comments by flat out saying I am friends with the owners of Stoll and Wolfe and the Stolls, but again, these comments are my own opinions and not theirs. I don't know the intricate details of the situation, but for those not in the know at all- Heritage Spirits released a whiskey at nearly the same time Michter's released a special bourbon. Both were called Bomberger's- in honor of the distillery in Schaefferstown. A lawsuit ensued and in the end, Heritage Spirits became Stoll & Wolfe. Stoll & Wolfe Distillery has gone on to release a wonderful line of spirits including a bourbon and rye blend, rye whiskey, bourbon whiskey, gin, and vodka. Like with Michter's, I encourage you to pick up a bottle. Did it bring me frustration to see Michter's in Kentucky to get the Bomberger's name and begin also using the Shenk's name (Another former owner of the distillery in Schaefferstown)? Yes. Of course it did. I would have loved to see the names stay local. With the hiring of Dick Stoll by Stoll & Wolfe, it would have been great to see them have at least one product linking them to the distillery in Schaefferstown. After all, they do have the distiller from that distillery now working with them. But, does it really matter? It's a name. And I think Stoll & Wolfe will do just fine, regardless of what name is on the bottle. It doesn't change who made it and the quality of what's in the bottle. And, though I have never had any myself, I understand the Bomberger's and Shenk's releases from Michter's are very good as well.

-WINNING DISTILLER OF THE YEAR- Several years back, before Michter's in Kentucky was distilling for themselves and were having whiskey distilled for them by another distiller, they were given the award of Distiller of the year. Chuck Cowdery, who is 1000x more knowledgeable in American whiskey that I am, and a prolific whiskey writer, covered the subject perfectly in a blog entry of his own a few years back: https://chuckcowdery.blogspot.com/2012/11/how-can-non-distiller-be-distiller-of.html  Michter's is now a distiller with two distilleries. Now would be a more appropriate time to bestow that award on them.

1753- Ok, here's me being a nitpicker a bit. The modern Michter's in Kentucky uses the year 1753 and talks about Michter's heritage since 1753. To me, this is false. The Michter's name was created in the 1950's by Lou Forman, by combining the names of his two sons- Michael and Peter. It was the distillery in PA that dated back to 1753, not the Michter's name. In my opinion (I know, I'm not the guy in charge...) the 1753 link died with the closure of the distillery in Schaefferstown in 1990. My only real rub there. Here's where a lot of people like to point when accusing Michter's of fudging history a bit. And they aren't entirely wrong. Potentially deceptive? Maybe. But on the other hand, if you buy your whiskey based simply on the founding date of the company, you are crazier that I am. And that's impressive.

To keep this short, I'll close here. Sure, there are things I wish were done differently and there are things I wish stayed in PA. But that's just not reality. And what is reality isn't hurting anything either. Michter's honors the name well and I hope that continues in the future. In the meantime, I'll stick to collecting stuff from the original Michter's here in PA. Sometimes it's easier and more simple to just live in the past and not worry so much about the present and future.........



Obligatory Michter's (The one in PA, of course!) stuff. An article from 1978 with a little distillery history:




Saturday, December 1, 2018

A Great, Seasonal Article in Lancaster County Magazine With a Little Michter's and Stoll & Wolfe....

I encourage everyone to read this article. It not only gives a brief history of distilling in and around Lancaster County, some info on Michter's, and an explanation of the great things happening at Stoll & Wolfe distillery, it also give you some excellent holiday drink ideas. This article was written by Jordan Bush, who's a great writer and took extra care and detail to write this story. And be sure to pick up a copy (Or two, or three...) of Lancaster County Magazine!



https://www.lancastercountymag.com/holiday-spirits//


 Obligatory Michter's picture my collection-













Sunday, October 14, 2018

Some Fresh Angles of an Old Distillery


















Some most likely never seen before views of Michter's Distillery and a few of the employees.

Thursday, August 16, 2018

From an Agricultral Operation to Worldwide Producer....


 Shown below are two old photos I have. Both are, unfortunately, undated but they tell the tale of the Bomberger's Distillery and Michter's. The first photo, I would put probably post-Civil War era. The distillery is basically still an agricultural operation- local surplus grain is converted to whiskey for the local residents. My guess would be at the time of the photo, it would have been named the Bomberger Distillery.
The second photo shows a vastly different scene- several large warehouses, a commercial distillery, and other various outbuildings. By the late 70's Michter's was available across the US, and even over in Japan at times. The distillery was now a popular tourist attraction and the decanters had become well-known. Dark times were right around the corner, unfortunately, as the distillery rapidly lost sales, encountered money issues, and finally closed in 1990.
These two pictures show what was- in two forms, as a small farm distillery, and a distillery that was shipping their whiskey all over the US and elsewhere. And yet it never lost it's quaint and historical feel. And I still don't think it has today!




Friday, January 5, 2018

You're Disqualified!!

With the recent strong feelings over whether Jack Daniel's is a bourbon or not (Read here for a great explanation: Chuck Cowdery's answer to the Jack Daniel's argument) I think it's time we take a look at Michter's.......

Let's preface this by saying I am referring to the product of the original Michter's from Schaefferstown, PA. Not the modern line of products coming from Kentucky. From the Bomberger Distillery a few miles outside of Schaefferstown came the product I so love, collect, and write about- Michter's Original Sour Mash Pot Still Whiskey *Said all in one breath*. Read it again. Notice something? A something that is also missing from the Jack Daniel's label? Keen whiskey drinkers would notice there is no "rye" or "bourbon" on the label. No, it's not because there's some devious plot to pipe Jack to PA secretly. The reason for "bourbon" not appearing on the ol' No. 7 is a different reason than why it does not appear on Michter's labels.
Let's start with what makes a bourbon a bourbon and what makes a rye a rye. I won't go into each and every detail so this doesn't get confusing for those not as acquainted with American whiskey laws and regulations. Under Title 27, Chapter I, Subchapter A, Part 5, Subpart C, 5.22 "The Standards of Identity" you'll find (b)(1)(i) stating the following:

“Bourbon whisky”, “rye whisky”, “wheat whisky”, “malt whisky”, or “rye malt whisky” is whisky produced at not exceeding 160° proof from a fermented mash of not less than 51 percent corn, rye, wheat, malted barley, or malted rye grain, respectively, and stored at not more than 125° proof in charred new oak containers; and also includes mixtures of such whiskies of the same type.

What does this mean in layman's terms? When you're making bourbon, you've got to have at least 51% corn in the mix. Rye gets at least 51% rye grain and so on. It can't come off the still at more than 160 proof and it can't go into a new charred oak (Very important!) barrel at more than 125 proof. 

And with that, Michter's Original Sour Mash Pot Still Whiskey- YOU'RE DISQUALIFIED!!

Why? Well, the creator of the Michter's brand, Mr. Lou Forman, wanted something unique. He saw the popularity of Jack Daniel's and knew of the coming of Maker's Mark- both unique whiskeys for their time. Mr. Forman wanted a slice of this market. So he didn't just want to create another bourbon, or rye, or blended whiskey. Michter's isn't a blend. It contains no neutral spirits. It's not a bourbon. It's not a rye. It's not corn whiskey either. What is it?

Whiskey.

Yep.

Just. Whiskey.

Michter's does not meet the qualifications to be called a bourbon, rye, or corn whiskey. Nor anything else. Michter's, by mashbill (Recipe), is closest to bourbon. However, it does not contain the required 51% corn to be called a bourbon. While it was distilled below 160 proof and went into its barrel around 108-115 proof, it's already been disqualified on the mashbill from becoming anything but "whiskey." But there's more. To keep costs lower, if freshly emptied barrels were available, they were filled with the newly distilled Michter's. So now we have a second disqualification. Only corn whiskey is allowed to be aged in reused barrels (Corn whiskey must contain 80% or more corn in the mashbill). Even if Michter's had the required 51% corn, it would get disqualified by being aged in reused barrels. Not all Michter's was aged in reused barrels though. Some was aged in new barrels. My bulk whiskey inventory lists from the 1980's confirm this, as did Dick Stoll (Master Distiller at Michter's from 1976-1990). But ultimately, they were all dumped together when bottling batches of Michter's.

Whiskey. That's it. The Original Sour Mash Pot Still part is just fluff. It was sour mash whiskey, that is true. And it did come out of a pot still. Original? Sure, why not. Does it make Michter's inferior? Absolutely not. It's like saying Jack Daniel's would be inferior just because it was subjected to the Lincoln County Process. Michter's was and is regarded as a quality product. And with the odd mix of barrels that made up the small batches, some bottles and decanters have a bourbon flavor, while others have a more rye-ish character. I haven't had a bottle I didn't like!

So there you have it. A unique product that was purposely disqualified from certain titles by its creator just so it could be something unique. And unique it was. The modern day Michter's in Kentucky makes a Sour Mash whiskey that is made to replicate the Original stuff, and I've tried them side-by-side and it's worthy of its name. The folks in Kentucky also make a nice lineup of other whiskies under the Michter's name that include bourbons and ryes that are worth finding and trying. Even the original Michter's in PA made some bourbons and ryes, but generally either sold the whiskey to other companies for bottling or they would bottle it under other names. The only bottling that's ever been confirmed of Michter's that wasn't just "whiskey" was a one-off bottling of straight rye whiskey that was sold exclusively through the Jug House at the distillery. The Michter's Original Sour Mash Pot Still whiskey is still out there. Not on the shelf of your liquor store, but it's out there. And it's worth the money to check it out. It does taste different. And it's good.


Sunday, October 29, 2017

They're open! The day has come!

After years of hard work, planning, and getting things just right, the day has come. Stoll and Wolfe Distillery is open for business. You're now able to experience a distillery and tasting room unlike anything else in the heart of what was rye whiskey country. Stoll and Wolfe is a continuation of sorts. See, when Dick Stoll received the call from the bank to shut down the Michter's Distillery in Schaefferstown in 1990, there was no official end. It was assumed at the time that a new operator would be found by the bank in short time and they'd be back at it. That day never came. The doors stayed locked. Eventually the whiskey was all removed and destroyed by the government. Mr. Stoll never retired from Michter's. No, he retired instead from a local school district, denied a final farewell from distilling. But maybe it's because there would be a new beginning for him? Yes, this is where Stoll and Wolfe begins. While Erik, his wife Avianna, and father Jim Wolfe put it all together, they wanted to give Dick the chance to be involved with what he so loved years ago. And to some day, have a proper send off- the opportunity to say "Ok guys, now I'm ready." And though over a quarter century has gone by, he hasn't forgotten much, if anything. I've asked him very specific questions about the process of distillation at Michter's and he knew the exact answers. During the opening festivities, S&W released the first of their batches of rye whiskey. This whiskey was distilled in Virginia by the Wolfes and the Stolls (Dick met his wife Elaine at the distillery when she was hired as a tour guide. Elaine has many fond memories of the distillery just like Dick and is also a wealth of great knowledge). Dick was involved with coming up with the mashbill and the actual distillation and barreling of the product. Have I tried the rye? Yes. It's wonderful. For only being about a year to year and a half old, it's a great balance. Butterscotchy and lightly oily and grainy on the tongue. Astringent and slightly dry on the finish. And it will only get better as more time in the barrel influences the distillate. While the tasting room is open, the distillery will begin operation in the next few weeks. There are some finishing touches that need done and test runs will commence. And of course you can expect the same quality in future batches. So, stop by. Have a drink. Or two. Buy a bottle. Or two. Chat with Erik, Avi, Jim, and the others. You'll learn something, guaranteed.

Check them out at 35 North Cedar St. in Lititz, PA and online at  http://www.stollandwolfe.com/


Below are photos taken by and used by permission from Amy Spangler.  Her photography work is second to none and shows some wonderful scenes from the opening week of festivities......


The tasting room. Very cozy.....

Erik Wolfe making a drink for a customer. Try his version of Rock and Rye. It's excellent.

Avianna greets customers.

The current menu. Vodka or gin based drinks are also available, as is wine.

Discussing the news of the day is Jim Wolfe and yours truly. I'm wearing one of my Michter's shirts for the occasion.

The legends. Dick and Elaine Stoll were on hand for the ribbon cutting ceremony. Some of the best folks you could ever spend time talking with about Michter's and anything whiskey.

Tuesday, June 20, 2017

Giving Away Secrets- How Michter's Distilled Whiskey on a "Large" Scale.

While taking a tour of Michter's the tour guide would be sure to take you into the Bomberger's Warehouse, which was the oldest standing building on the site during the Michter's era. In it were several things- an old barrel weight scale, some aging barrels of whiskey, occasionally barrels of purchased Scotch may have even been stored there before bottling. But the centerpiece was a large diagram showing in simplified view the entire distilling process at Michter's from grain to barrel.

Much has been written and said about the small still arrangement that once sat in the Still House and produced about a barrel a day of whiskey. Those stills exist today and were most recently restored and used by Tom's Foolery Distillery in Ohio. They are now in the possession of the modern day Michter's and the plan is to use them in their downtown Louisville, KY location once it is renovated. Little has been said or seen of the large scale- and I use that term loosely as they still only produced maybe 50 barrels a day- distillation process that produced the vast majority of Michter's and Pennco's whiskies and other spirits (Yes, they made more than whiskey, just not very often!). All the grain was stored and milled in the same location, but the grains destined for the pot stills in the Still House were then bagged and carried over to the Still House. Mashing and fermentation took place in the Fermentation building in large steel vats. After fermentation was complete, the distiller's beer was pumped under the creek in a pipe into a concrete vat under the Still House. From there it was run through a column still (Woah! Woah! Whoa! Yea, your "pot still whiskey" took a trip through a *gasp* column still!). Here's where it get controversial. After running through the column still, it took a trip into what Michter's called a "pot still." Some may call it a "doubler", others a "thumper". But it was run in batch form and not continuous form like the column still, so Michter's felt it appropriate to call it a pot still- thus maintaining the "Pot Still Whiskey" name. I believe it was Sam Komlenic that called it "One of the most controversial pieces of distilling equipment..." during a walk through of the distillery about 7 years ago. But that's neither here nor there anymore. The main distilling equipment is all gone, falling victim to the scrappers torch during demolition of the Still Tower and Fermentation Building. Michter's also had a large spent mash drying and processing facility. Used fermented mash was pumped over to the Grain Drying Building where it was dried out in a process that included evaporators, dryers, and the addition of sweet syrup. The end result was excellent cattle feed that was happily gobbled up by local steers and cows.

So about that diagram. In order to convey to the tour taker the uniqueness of the Michter's distillation process, the entire process was explained in good detail using a large, easy to understand diagram. It had not only the process from grain to barrel, but even included how the spent mash was dried and prepared as cattle feed. Pipes connected stills and tanks to show flow and each component was clearly labeled. Here's a great old scan of a slide showing the chart:




Here's another during a tour:







Lastly, here's a photo of the column still (Behind the Still Operator) and the controversial pot still: